sold
not many car updates here at the moment i'm afraid,
still painting racing though
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
The best way to sell your car
Selling your car can be a long and drawn out process if done the wrong way. I have helped 1,000's of people sell their used car online in the shortest amount of time. Save yourself some time and money by following the steps below.
Research the value before you place a classified ad.
Too high a price will scare people away. Take into consideration the mileage, condition, and the records you have kept. People will be more willing to buy a car if you kept good records of all maintenance. When arriving at an asking price look at all the online sources and get an average cost. Most sites use different databases for pricing information and your best price is an average from all of the sites. You can get pricing information online at any of the following online websites:
Kelly blue book - They now have a private sale value which is what you can expect to sell your car for to a private party. I have heard others say Kelly Blue Book pricing is a little high, and after researching many cars online I must agree.
NADA - The choice of most dealers and financial institutions.
Edmonds - Another great source for pricing
AutoWorld - In my experience this site offers the most realistic pricing.
When writing your ad, make sure to include the basics..... Make, model, Color, price, mileage, phone number and best time to contact you. Adding OBO (Or Best Offer) after the selling price may get you a few more responses since the buyer will know you are flexible.
Clean your car before anyone comes to see it. Make sure you sweep out the interior and clean any spots from the carpet and upholstery. Also a good coat of wax would not hurt. Consider going to a reputable detailing business to have the car cleaned. This can literally add 100's of dollars to the resale value.
If you have an extended warranty on your car, check if it's transferable. This can ease a seller's mind and possibly make the sale.
Print out a one page flyer and hang them outside supermarkets and other businesses with public bulletin boards. Also check out free classified papers which usually are distributed outside of supermarkets.
You must use online advertising to reach the largest audience possible. Go to car.com for listing used cars online. Many people have used car.com and sold their car within a month ! Where else can you submit your ad and get it shown to Millions of people per month?
Research the value before you place a classified ad.
Too high a price will scare people away. Take into consideration the mileage, condition, and the records you have kept. People will be more willing to buy a car if you kept good records of all maintenance. When arriving at an asking price look at all the online sources and get an average cost. Most sites use different databases for pricing information and your best price is an average from all of the sites. You can get pricing information online at any of the following online websites:
Kelly blue book - They now have a private sale value which is what you can expect to sell your car for to a private party. I have heard others say Kelly Blue Book pricing is a little high, and after researching many cars online I must agree.
NADA - The choice of most dealers and financial institutions.
Edmonds - Another great source for pricing
AutoWorld - In my experience this site offers the most realistic pricing.
When writing your ad, make sure to include the basics..... Make, model, Color, price, mileage, phone number and best time to contact you. Adding OBO (Or Best Offer) after the selling price may get you a few more responses since the buyer will know you are flexible.
Clean your car before anyone comes to see it. Make sure you sweep out the interior and clean any spots from the carpet and upholstery. Also a good coat of wax would not hurt. Consider going to a reputable detailing business to have the car cleaned. This can literally add 100's of dollars to the resale value.
If you have an extended warranty on your car, check if it's transferable. This can ease a seller's mind and possibly make the sale.
Print out a one page flyer and hang them outside supermarkets and other businesses with public bulletin boards. Also check out free classified papers which usually are distributed outside of supermarkets.
You must use online advertising to reach the largest audience possible. Go to car.com for listing used cars online. Many people have used car.com and sold their car within a month ! Where else can you submit your ad and get it shown to Millions of people per month?
Automobile Engine
The engine is the heart of your car, but instead of pumping blood, the engine pumps air and fuel. The engines main function is to convert air and fuel into rotary motion so it can drive the wheels of the car.
How does it do that?
Pistons:
Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons which move up and down in the cylinders. On the upper side of the piston is what is called the combustion chamber where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side is the crankcase which is full of oil. Pistons have rings which serve to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber and the fuel and air out of the oil. Pistons are made from lightweight aluminum alloy and are designed to float in the cylinder without contacting the cylinder walls. They float on a thin layer of oil which is below the rings. If the rings fail, oil can leak into the combustion chamber and you will see grey smoke coming from the exhaust. If the rings wear or you lose oil to the engine, the pistons can score the cylinder walls damaging the engine and requiring a rebuild.
Crankshaft:
The crankshaft is connected to the pistons via a connecting rod. As the piston moves up and down in the cylinder it rotates the crankshaft and converts the straight line motion into rotary motion
Valvetrain:
The valvetrain consists of valves, rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, and the cam shaft. The valvetrain's only job is that of a traffic cop. It lets air and fuel in and out of the engine at the proper time. The timing is controlled by the camshaft which is synchronized to the crankshaft by a chain or belt.
Now that we have a general overview of the parts involved let's talk about what happens during the normal operation of your engine. Most automotive engine today are 4-stroke (or 4-cycle) engines, meaning they have four distinct events which make up the cycle. A 4-stroke engine takes two complete crankshaft revolutions to complete the cycle. Below are the 4 complete parts of the 4-stroke cycle...
* Intake stroke:
The camshaft opens the intake valve and the piston moves down the cylinder. This creates vacuum and sucks in air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston.
* Compression stroke:
As the piston starts moving back up the cylinder the intake valve closes and seals off the combustion chamber. The causes the air and fuel to compress.
* Power stroke:
As the fuel is compressed and the piston nears the top of the cylinder the spark plug fires and ignites the fuel and air. This explosion pushes the piston back down the cylinder and drives the crankshaft.
* Exhaust stroke:
After the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens and the gasses left over from the fuel and air are sent out to the exhaust system.
To get a more indepth look into the engine, take a look at the Road Machines CD free preview.
Put these four events together in the above order and you have a complete cycle. Are you asleep yet? That's enough theory, let's talk about the real world and problems you might encounter with the above mentioned parts.
Pistons:
Remember I talked about the rings which seal the combustion chamber from the crankcase. The rings over time tend to wear out. When they wear they allow the fuel and air to enter into the oil and dilute it. This dilution reduces the oils ability to lubricate your engine and can cause premature wear. Also if the rings wear down they can allow oil from the crankcase to enter the combustion chambers. This will result in oil being burned and exiting your tailpipe as grayish/white smoke. If your car spews grayish white smoke and it does not go stop in the first few minutes after start-up you might have warn rings. If the smoke goes away after start-up look to the valvetrain section.
Crankshaft:
The crankshaft rides on bearings which can wear down over time. The bearings support the crankshaft and also the rods which connect the pistons to the crankshaft. A loud medium pitched knocking noise in the engine points to warn bearings most of the time. This is usually a costly repair and involves removing the crankshaft and either machining the surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire crankshaft. To prevent this type of problem, use a high quality oil, change your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000 miles is a safe number) and always maintain your oil level between oil changes. Many times it is more economical to buy a replacement engine, than to have your engine rebuilt when you have a crankshaft bearing failure. Your mechanic can give you a better idea of costs involved.
Valvetrain:
Remember the oil smoke problem mentioned above in the piston sections. If your car only smokes grayish/white smoke at start-up you may have leaking valve seals. Valve seals keep oil from above the valve from leaking into the combustion chamber. When they wear, they can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and collect there until your start the engine again. You generally do not get oil leaking past the valve seals while the engine is running since the seals expand with the heat of the engine and plug the leak.
Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even break causing the camshaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft tells the valves when to open and if it stops spinning then the valves stop opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine running :-)
A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is "interference engine". When an engine is an "interference engine" the pistons and valves are so close together that if the valves were to stop moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning they would crash into the piston. (that's the interference) This crash tends to do bad things to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking pistons. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain or belt every 60,000 miles. Timing belts dry out, stretch and deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000 miles on the car think about changing the belt after it's 6 years old. If you are wondering if your engine is an interference engine, you can check with Gates, who makes timing belts and has a PDF file which will tell you if your engine is an interference engine and the recommended service interval.
Preventive Maintenance:
* Change your oil regularly and use the recommend weight of oil. Check your owners manual or under the hood for the correct oil to be used.
* Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Doing this will let the oil get into all parts of the engine before you put a load on the engine. This is even more critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.
* Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer's recommended interval.
* Avoid "snake oil" additives advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good maintenance habits will keep your engine running it's best.
* If you have a turbo-charged engine, give the engine a minute or two to cool down before turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings in the turbo. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
*If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.
*When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when the noise occurs, at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure your mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.
How does it do that?
Pistons:
Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons which move up and down in the cylinders. On the upper side of the piston is what is called the combustion chamber where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side is the crankcase which is full of oil. Pistons have rings which serve to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber and the fuel and air out of the oil. Pistons are made from lightweight aluminum alloy and are designed to float in the cylinder without contacting the cylinder walls. They float on a thin layer of oil which is below the rings. If the rings fail, oil can leak into the combustion chamber and you will see grey smoke coming from the exhaust. If the rings wear or you lose oil to the engine, the pistons can score the cylinder walls damaging the engine and requiring a rebuild.
Crankshaft:
The crankshaft is connected to the pistons via a connecting rod. As the piston moves up and down in the cylinder it rotates the crankshaft and converts the straight line motion into rotary motion
Valvetrain:
The valvetrain consists of valves, rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, and the cam shaft. The valvetrain's only job is that of a traffic cop. It lets air and fuel in and out of the engine at the proper time. The timing is controlled by the camshaft which is synchronized to the crankshaft by a chain or belt.
Now that we have a general overview of the parts involved let's talk about what happens during the normal operation of your engine. Most automotive engine today are 4-stroke (or 4-cycle) engines, meaning they have four distinct events which make up the cycle. A 4-stroke engine takes two complete crankshaft revolutions to complete the cycle. Below are the 4 complete parts of the 4-stroke cycle...
* Intake stroke:
The camshaft opens the intake valve and the piston moves down the cylinder. This creates vacuum and sucks in air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston.
* Compression stroke:
As the piston starts moving back up the cylinder the intake valve closes and seals off the combustion chamber. The causes the air and fuel to compress.
* Power stroke:
As the fuel is compressed and the piston nears the top of the cylinder the spark plug fires and ignites the fuel and air. This explosion pushes the piston back down the cylinder and drives the crankshaft.
* Exhaust stroke:
After the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens and the gasses left over from the fuel and air are sent out to the exhaust system.
To get a more indepth look into the engine, take a look at the Road Machines CD free preview.
Put these four events together in the above order and you have a complete cycle. Are you asleep yet? That's enough theory, let's talk about the real world and problems you might encounter with the above mentioned parts.
Pistons:
Remember I talked about the rings which seal the combustion chamber from the crankcase. The rings over time tend to wear out. When they wear they allow the fuel and air to enter into the oil and dilute it. This dilution reduces the oils ability to lubricate your engine and can cause premature wear. Also if the rings wear down they can allow oil from the crankcase to enter the combustion chambers. This will result in oil being burned and exiting your tailpipe as grayish/white smoke. If your car spews grayish white smoke and it does not go stop in the first few minutes after start-up you might have warn rings. If the smoke goes away after start-up look to the valvetrain section.
Crankshaft:
The crankshaft rides on bearings which can wear down over time. The bearings support the crankshaft and also the rods which connect the pistons to the crankshaft. A loud medium pitched knocking noise in the engine points to warn bearings most of the time. This is usually a costly repair and involves removing the crankshaft and either machining the surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire crankshaft. To prevent this type of problem, use a high quality oil, change your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000 miles is a safe number) and always maintain your oil level between oil changes. Many times it is more economical to buy a replacement engine, than to have your engine rebuilt when you have a crankshaft bearing failure. Your mechanic can give you a better idea of costs involved.
Valvetrain:
Remember the oil smoke problem mentioned above in the piston sections. If your car only smokes grayish/white smoke at start-up you may have leaking valve seals. Valve seals keep oil from above the valve from leaking into the combustion chamber. When they wear, they can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and collect there until your start the engine again. You generally do not get oil leaking past the valve seals while the engine is running since the seals expand with the heat of the engine and plug the leak.
Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even break causing the camshaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft tells the valves when to open and if it stops spinning then the valves stop opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine running :-)
A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is "interference engine". When an engine is an "interference engine" the pistons and valves are so close together that if the valves were to stop moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning they would crash into the piston. (that's the interference) This crash tends to do bad things to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking pistons. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain or belt every 60,000 miles. Timing belts dry out, stretch and deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000 miles on the car think about changing the belt after it's 6 years old. If you are wondering if your engine is an interference engine, you can check with Gates, who makes timing belts and has a PDF file which will tell you if your engine is an interference engine and the recommended service interval.
Preventive Maintenance:
* Change your oil regularly and use the recommend weight of oil. Check your owners manual or under the hood for the correct oil to be used.
* Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Doing this will let the oil get into all parts of the engine before you put a load on the engine. This is even more critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.
* Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer's recommended interval.
* Avoid "snake oil" additives advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good maintenance habits will keep your engine running it's best.
* If you have a turbo-charged engine, give the engine a minute or two to cool down before turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings in the turbo. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
*If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.
*When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when the noise occurs, at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure your mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.
German Grand Prix 09
541
acrylic on paper 8x6" sold
nothing could stop Mark Webber winning his first Grand Prix
not even himself...
Friday, July 10, 2009
Buying a used car with confidence-steps to take.
The following, are the basic things to,check when buying used cars.:
1. Check the vehicle's safety features
.
Consider a vehicle with air bags and anti-lock brakes. Not only will they make a car safer, but insurance companies sometimes give discounts on their rates for cars with these features.
2. Inspect the mileage.
Mileage is a good indicator of the vehicle's age, and the average consumer will drive from 12,000 miles to 15,000 miles each year. A late model used car may be more cost-effective and come with many features you may not be able to afford in a new car.
3. Check the mechanical condition of the vehicle.
If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, have a mechanic you trust check it for you. Fluids, lights, belts, power steering, the charging system, the air conditioner, the engine cooling system, the brakes and the suspension should all be carefully inspected for any defects and wear. And don't forget to test drive the car.
4. Examine the tires.
Uneven tread wear can be a sign that the car may need an alignment, or that it has damage to its suspension. Make sure the spare tire is in working condition with no damage or excessive wear.
5. Watch for frame damage.
Seriously damaged cars may be repaired, re-titled and sold in some cases, masking a vehicle that may not be structurally sound. When looking at a used car, check for:
-- rust around the fenders and bumpers, around lights, under doors and in wheel wells
-- cracks, dents and mismatched body panels
Cars that have been previously damaged may be more likely to have mechanical problems, and do not withstand accidents as well as cars that are structurally sound.
6. Check for cosmetic problems.
Common signs of wear and tear in used cars include cigarette burns, dirty upholstery, smoke stains, and paint scratches and chips.
7. Carefully read and understand the terms of any warranty offered on the car.
Don't hesitate to ask questions of your salesperson, and be wary of hidden conditions and exclusions that may be in the fine print. A reputable dealer will answer your questions completely and explain the details of the warranty.
8. Check the price.
The actual price of the car is only one of many factors that will determine your total price. Don't forget to compare financing rates, warranty costs, trade-in values and processing fees. The different features on the vehicle can also make a price difference. For example, a car with an automatic transmission is usually going to be slightly higher in price than the same car with a manual transmission. Research the vehicle you are considering, and find out what comparable prices are for similar vehicles in your area.
9. Look for a reputable dealership.
Ask around, and talk to previous customers of the dealer to find out what their experiences were like. A good dealer is more likely to be fair and up-front in price, value and condition of its vehicles, and won't pressure you to buy a vehicle you don't want. Hassles should never be part of buying a used car. Be prepared, and know what you're looking for.
1. Check the vehicle's safety features
.
Consider a vehicle with air bags and anti-lock brakes. Not only will they make a car safer, but insurance companies sometimes give discounts on their rates for cars with these features.
2. Inspect the mileage.
Mileage is a good indicator of the vehicle's age, and the average consumer will drive from 12,000 miles to 15,000 miles each year. A late model used car may be more cost-effective and come with many features you may not be able to afford in a new car.
3. Check the mechanical condition of the vehicle.
If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, have a mechanic you trust check it for you. Fluids, lights, belts, power steering, the charging system, the air conditioner, the engine cooling system, the brakes and the suspension should all be carefully inspected for any defects and wear. And don't forget to test drive the car.
4. Examine the tires.
Uneven tread wear can be a sign that the car may need an alignment, or that it has damage to its suspension. Make sure the spare tire is in working condition with no damage or excessive wear.
5. Watch for frame damage.
Seriously damaged cars may be repaired, re-titled and sold in some cases, masking a vehicle that may not be structurally sound. When looking at a used car, check for:
-- rust around the fenders and bumpers, around lights, under doors and in wheel wells
-- cracks, dents and mismatched body panels
Cars that have been previously damaged may be more likely to have mechanical problems, and do not withstand accidents as well as cars that are structurally sound.
6. Check for cosmetic problems.
Common signs of wear and tear in used cars include cigarette burns, dirty upholstery, smoke stains, and paint scratches and chips.
7. Carefully read and understand the terms of any warranty offered on the car.
Don't hesitate to ask questions of your salesperson, and be wary of hidden conditions and exclusions that may be in the fine print. A reputable dealer will answer your questions completely and explain the details of the warranty.
8. Check the price.
The actual price of the car is only one of many factors that will determine your total price. Don't forget to compare financing rates, warranty costs, trade-in values and processing fees. The different features on the vehicle can also make a price difference. For example, a car with an automatic transmission is usually going to be slightly higher in price than the same car with a manual transmission. Research the vehicle you are considering, and find out what comparable prices are for similar vehicles in your area.
9. Look for a reputable dealership.
Ask around, and talk to previous customers of the dealer to find out what their experiences were like. A good dealer is more likely to be fair and up-front in price, value and condition of its vehicles, and won't pressure you to buy a vehicle you don't want. Hassles should never be part of buying a used car. Be prepared, and know what you're looking for.
Gas saving tips
It is important to keep your vehicle properly maintained and change your driving habits so as to maximize your mileage. Here's a plan of action from the group that tests and certifies automotive technicians
Monitor your tires.
Under-inflated tires or poorly aligned wheels waste fuel by forcing the engine to work harder. Let the tires cool down before checking the air pressure. Out-of-line wheels, as evidenced by uneven tread wear, should be aligned by a professional.
Consolidate your daily trips and errands.
Some trips may be unnecessary. Also, try to travel when traffic is light so you can avoid stop-and-go conditions.
Avoid excessive engine idling.
Shut off your vehicle while waiting for friends and family.
Observe speed limits. Speeding decreases your miles per gallon.
Drive gently. Sudden accelerations guzzle gas. Anticipate traffic patterns and adjust your speed gradually. Use cruise control. (You'll help your brakes and suspension system last longer, too.)
Get rid of excess weight by removing unnecessary items from the vehicle. Store only essentials in the trunk. Less weight means better mileage. After family vacations, make sure you remove all unnecessary items, including that roof-top cargo carrier.
Use windows and air conditioning wisely. Your mileage should improve if you keep the windows closed at highway speeds, since air drag is reduced. This is true even with the air conditioning on -- assuming that the system is in good working order. If possible, try to avoid using your air conditioner in heavy, stop-and-go traffic such as traffic jams or holiday weekend back-ups.
Be a sensible patriot. Everyone loves the flag. But show your patriotism by affixing a decal rather than hoisting a large flapping U.S. flag, which increases air resistance.
Keep your engine operating at its "peak efficiency."
A well-maintained engine will help you maximize the gas mileage for your specific make and model. A misfiring spark plug can greatly reduce gas mileage. Follow the service schedules listed in your owner's manual. Replace filters and fluids as recommended; have engine performance problems (rough idling, poor acceleration, etc.) corrected at a repair facility. Given today's high-tech engines, it's wise to have this type of work done by auto technicians who are ASE certified in engine performance.
These conservation tips will not only save gasoline, they'll help extend the life of your vehicle and help you conserve precious natural resources. Patriotism, indeed.
Monitor your tires.
Under-inflated tires or poorly aligned wheels waste fuel by forcing the engine to work harder. Let the tires cool down before checking the air pressure. Out-of-line wheels, as evidenced by uneven tread wear, should be aligned by a professional.
Consolidate your daily trips and errands.
Some trips may be unnecessary. Also, try to travel when traffic is light so you can avoid stop-and-go conditions.
Avoid excessive engine idling.
Shut off your vehicle while waiting for friends and family.
Observe speed limits. Speeding decreases your miles per gallon.
Drive gently. Sudden accelerations guzzle gas. Anticipate traffic patterns and adjust your speed gradually. Use cruise control. (You'll help your brakes and suspension system last longer, too.)
Get rid of excess weight by removing unnecessary items from the vehicle. Store only essentials in the trunk. Less weight means better mileage. After family vacations, make sure you remove all unnecessary items, including that roof-top cargo carrier.
Use windows and air conditioning wisely. Your mileage should improve if you keep the windows closed at highway speeds, since air drag is reduced. This is true even with the air conditioning on -- assuming that the system is in good working order. If possible, try to avoid using your air conditioner in heavy, stop-and-go traffic such as traffic jams or holiday weekend back-ups.
Be a sensible patriot. Everyone loves the flag. But show your patriotism by affixing a decal rather than hoisting a large flapping U.S. flag, which increases air resistance.
Keep your engine operating at its "peak efficiency."
A well-maintained engine will help you maximize the gas mileage for your specific make and model. A misfiring spark plug can greatly reduce gas mileage. Follow the service schedules listed in your owner's manual. Replace filters and fluids as recommended; have engine performance problems (rough idling, poor acceleration, etc.) corrected at a repair facility. Given today's high-tech engines, it's wise to have this type of work done by auto technicians who are ASE certified in engine performance.
These conservation tips will not only save gasoline, they'll help extend the life of your vehicle and help you conserve precious natural resources. Patriotism, indeed.
Washing your car.
What is the best product to use as a car wash? The correct answer is use what you like the best. There are some drawbacks to certain products and advantages to others. Dish detergents (Ivory Liquid, etc.) may be used, but realize that these products are designed to remove animal or vegetable fat from fired ceramic. They look at your nice coat of wax with the same hungry eyes. If you enjoy washing and rewaxing weekly, then dish detergent is for you. Wax retailers love people who use Ivory Liquid (they send the Ivory Company Christmas Cards every year).
If you prefer to have your wax last a lot longer, you may consider using a product that is
specifically designed for automotive use. The quality products are based upon detergents instead of soaps. Most soaps are manufactured from rendered animal byproducts (the stuff the dog food people reject). They contain trace elements that can actually damage your paint. These trace elements are the same goodies that leave a ring in your bathtub. The exception is soaps manufactured from plant fats. (These leave mold in your tub - just Kidding)
Quality car washes/shampoos (same thing - most cars don't have hair) are usually pH controlled, contain gloss enhancers and some even have small amounts of water-soluble wax for good measure. Use only enough car wash to break the electrostatic/ionic bond between the dirt and your car. Start with a clean large bucket (preferably plastic - if you kick the metal bucket, Mr. Paint Chip rears his ugly head); add a small amount of the car wash and fill with cool water. Avoid hot water, as it will soften the wax. Read the directions on the car wash bottle and try reducing the recommended amount by half. I use less than a cap full in 5 gallons. The more car wash, the more wax you remove. Try to avoid powder car washes as the undissolved granules can lodge under your sponge or wash mitt and scratch the paint surface. Make sure that your car is in the shade and the paint surface is relatively cool. Rule of thumb #1: If you can comfortably hold your hand on the hood, you can wash/wax the car.
Spray the car with a gentle spray to thoroughly wet the surface. Don't use a 200 P.S.I. fire hydrant spray, it isn't needed and may grind the surface grime into the paint and cause scratches. Some of the concours purists will not use a nozzle on the hose at all. Start at the top of the car and work down. Rewet the top; gently wash the top and then rinse. Move onto another section, such as the trunk or hood. Rewet this area, wash and rinse. Continue on down the car, completing a section at a time. This way, the car wash does not dry on the paint
You may use a wash mitt, wash pad or sponge to wash your car. I prefer a wash mitt, as the grit tends to work up into the long fibers and not scratch the paint. When I redip the mitt into the wash bucket, I give it a swirl to release the grit and every so often hold the top open, allowing it to fill with water. I then lift straight up and as the water runs out, it "back flushes" the trapped dirt out of the mitt. The flat surface of a sponge can sometimes catch dirt and act like sandpaper. The purist will use two wash mitts, one for the top half of the car (the cleanest) and one for below the trim line and wheels/wheel wells.
You should dry the car as soon as possible. There are several methods to accomplish this. Lots of towels are a great drying medium. They should be 100% cotton. Check any towels carefully as most towels contain polymer fibers that scratch like hundreds of hypodermic needles. Do not assume that the 100% cotton label on the towel is telling the truth. The only way to check is to actually set fire to a rolled up corner of the towel. If you get a clean flame like a candlewick then it is 100% cotton. If you see black smoke and melted fibers, then you got one of the non 100%, anxiously waiting to scratch your paint type of towels. One person checked 130 towels all marked 100% cotton and discovered that 12 actually were. I love truth in advertising.
Start at the top, lay the towel on the top and then GENTLY blot up the water from the surface. Change to a dry towel and blot any remaining water. Move to the hood or trunk and repeat. Dry the sides last, as the water will usually take care of itself on these surfaces. Another method is to use a chamois. There are two types, natural and synthetic. The natural leather chamois contain acids, primarily tannic, that strip wax. Most synthetic towels don't seem to do a satisfactory job. One exception is the P21S Super Absorbing Drying Towel. I have stopped using towels after trying this goodie and I used to be a "dyed in the wool" towel man. Driving the car to dry it may be fun, but you are re-depositing dirt on the wet surface and allowing the resulting "mud" to dry on the paint.
Bird presents are one of the most damaging "natural" disasters that attack our paint. (I have never seen a Yugo attacked by a bird, but just wait till your brand new pride and joy leaves the garage, they swoop in like someone rang the free birdseed bell.) I don't know what we are feeding the birds, but what comes out of the south end of a northbound bird is highly acidic. The longer we leave these psychedelic bird presents on our paint, the more damage they will cause. The acids tend to etch a microscopic pond shaped depression in the paint. Removal as soon as possible will help minimize the damage. Instead of carrying a hose and bucket in your car, carry a bottle of no salt seltzer water. No salt seltzer water is nothing more than water and carbon dioxide which will not harm your paint. When needed, take off the cap, place your thumb over the top, shake well and you have a fire hydrant that will wash the worst of the bird's thoughtful gift from your paint. Try to rub this area as little as possible. Birds use gravel to digest their food and grit is one of the major components of their presents. If you try and rub off the solids, you may scratch the paint. Once you have gotten home and had a chance to wash the area with car wash, rinsed thoroughly and dried, use a little Meguiar #34 or One Grand Show Off to help remove any leftover acids. When you have the time, give the area a coat of wax. If the acids have left a slight mark in the paint, see the article on cleaning your paint. 3M Imperial Hand Glaze will usually remove all traces.
If you prefer to have your wax last a lot longer, you may consider using a product that is
specifically designed for automotive use. The quality products are based upon detergents instead of soaps. Most soaps are manufactured from rendered animal byproducts (the stuff the dog food people reject). They contain trace elements that can actually damage your paint. These trace elements are the same goodies that leave a ring in your bathtub. The exception is soaps manufactured from plant fats. (These leave mold in your tub - just Kidding)
Quality car washes/shampoos (same thing - most cars don't have hair) are usually pH controlled, contain gloss enhancers and some even have small amounts of water-soluble wax for good measure. Use only enough car wash to break the electrostatic/ionic bond between the dirt and your car. Start with a clean large bucket (preferably plastic - if you kick the metal bucket, Mr. Paint Chip rears his ugly head); add a small amount of the car wash and fill with cool water. Avoid hot water, as it will soften the wax. Read the directions on the car wash bottle and try reducing the recommended amount by half. I use less than a cap full in 5 gallons. The more car wash, the more wax you remove. Try to avoid powder car washes as the undissolved granules can lodge under your sponge or wash mitt and scratch the paint surface. Make sure that your car is in the shade and the paint surface is relatively cool. Rule of thumb #1: If you can comfortably hold your hand on the hood, you can wash/wax the car.
Spray the car with a gentle spray to thoroughly wet the surface. Don't use a 200 P.S.I. fire hydrant spray, it isn't needed and may grind the surface grime into the paint and cause scratches. Some of the concours purists will not use a nozzle on the hose at all. Start at the top of the car and work down. Rewet the top; gently wash the top and then rinse. Move onto another section, such as the trunk or hood. Rewet this area, wash and rinse. Continue on down the car, completing a section at a time. This way, the car wash does not dry on the paint
You may use a wash mitt, wash pad or sponge to wash your car. I prefer a wash mitt, as the grit tends to work up into the long fibers and not scratch the paint. When I redip the mitt into the wash bucket, I give it a swirl to release the grit and every so often hold the top open, allowing it to fill with water. I then lift straight up and as the water runs out, it "back flushes" the trapped dirt out of the mitt. The flat surface of a sponge can sometimes catch dirt and act like sandpaper. The purist will use two wash mitts, one for the top half of the car (the cleanest) and one for below the trim line and wheels/wheel wells.
You should dry the car as soon as possible. There are several methods to accomplish this. Lots of towels are a great drying medium. They should be 100% cotton. Check any towels carefully as most towels contain polymer fibers that scratch like hundreds of hypodermic needles. Do not assume that the 100% cotton label on the towel is telling the truth. The only way to check is to actually set fire to a rolled up corner of the towel. If you get a clean flame like a candlewick then it is 100% cotton. If you see black smoke and melted fibers, then you got one of the non 100%, anxiously waiting to scratch your paint type of towels. One person checked 130 towels all marked 100% cotton and discovered that 12 actually were. I love truth in advertising.
Start at the top, lay the towel on the top and then GENTLY blot up the water from the surface. Change to a dry towel and blot any remaining water. Move to the hood or trunk and repeat. Dry the sides last, as the water will usually take care of itself on these surfaces. Another method is to use a chamois. There are two types, natural and synthetic. The natural leather chamois contain acids, primarily tannic, that strip wax. Most synthetic towels don't seem to do a satisfactory job. One exception is the P21S Super Absorbing Drying Towel. I have stopped using towels after trying this goodie and I used to be a "dyed in the wool" towel man. Driving the car to dry it may be fun, but you are re-depositing dirt on the wet surface and allowing the resulting "mud" to dry on the paint.
Bird presents are one of the most damaging "natural" disasters that attack our paint. (I have never seen a Yugo attacked by a bird, but just wait till your brand new pride and joy leaves the garage, they swoop in like someone rang the free birdseed bell.) I don't know what we are feeding the birds, but what comes out of the south end of a northbound bird is highly acidic. The longer we leave these psychedelic bird presents on our paint, the more damage they will cause. The acids tend to etch a microscopic pond shaped depression in the paint. Removal as soon as possible will help minimize the damage. Instead of carrying a hose and bucket in your car, carry a bottle of no salt seltzer water. No salt seltzer water is nothing more than water and carbon dioxide which will not harm your paint. When needed, take off the cap, place your thumb over the top, shake well and you have a fire hydrant that will wash the worst of the bird's thoughtful gift from your paint. Try to rub this area as little as possible. Birds use gravel to digest their food and grit is one of the major components of their presents. If you try and rub off the solids, you may scratch the paint. Once you have gotten home and had a chance to wash the area with car wash, rinsed thoroughly and dried, use a little Meguiar #34 or One Grand Show Off to help remove any leftover acids. When you have the time, give the area a coat of wax. If the acids have left a slight mark in the paint, see the article on cleaning your paint. 3M Imperial Hand Glaze will usually remove all traces.
Friday, July 3, 2009
Tom Kristensen
540
acrylic on canvas 24x30" sold
last year Tom Kristensen won Le Mans for the 8th time...
how does he do it?
acrylic on canvas 24x30" soldlast year Tom Kristensen won Le Mans for the 8th time...
how does he do it?
.
have you ever visited 4RingBlog.com?
you should!
not only because they featured my work
it is a beautiful blog
covering anything Audi
Audi R10 step by step
539
it has been a while since i have shown you a work in progress
so here we are...enjoy!
step2
step3
finish...acrylic on canvas 24x30" sold
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